Purpose

Separate collection of end-of-life (EoL) textiles is considered a prerequisite for an effective circular textile system. This study aims to examine how the design of a collection system for EoL textiles facilitates high collection quantities and sorting qualities.

Design/methodology/approach

A design science approach using context–intervention–mechanisms–outcome logic was applied, as the study addresses a practical problem and provides suggestions for designing a collection system for EoL textiles. Nine collection pilots in the Nordic countries were designed, empirically tested and analyzed.

Findings

When designing a collection system for EoL textiles, it is important to consider consumers’ convenience and awareness as well as collectors’ efficiency. Proximity of collection to households results in high collection quantity per household, triggering the mechanisms of consumer convenience and awareness. Indoor collection improves the sorting quality and quantity of the reusable textile fraction due to the trust of keeping the material value. Collection close to the consumer supported with clear and continuous communication can result in high sorting quality of the recyclable textile fraction. Consumers’ sorting quality can improve with time, thereby increasing the overall efficiency of the reverse EoL textile value chain. Semi-centralized collection best meets the requirements of both consumers and collectors.

Originality/value

This study contributes to the knowledge of circular supply chain management by providing empirical results and evaluating real-life solutions to the first-mile problem of reverse flows of EoL textiles. The results offer insights into the design elements of EoL textile collection systems and identify what facilitates high collection quantity and quality of sorting.